Docklands and the Thames,
Victoria Park to Paternoster
Square. Take a nostalgic
trip back to the East End in
the 1950’s or a stroll around
the Square Mile of the City
of London. It’s all here at
barryoneoff.co.uk
Copyright 2002 - 2023 ©Barry Carter. All rights reserved
Rebuilding of the City
Eighty percent of the City was destroyed in
the blaze of 1666. During the blitz the it was
again almost destroyed. Almost the whole of
the City’s buildings obliterated in two
separate eras. After the war many building
and developments were initiated at speed to
get the City back on its feet.
Today, in the 21st. century, many are
outdated, unsightly and no longer fit for
purpose. In the first decade of the new
millennium I saw more tower cranes appear
in the Square Mile than ever before. New
building projects taking place everywhere. In
2020 it seems even worse. The building work
seems to be unending! Demolition and
rebuilding everywhere. Most new buildings
overshadow the few remaining parts of the
old City. Some take into account any existing
trees or plants and have to be built around
them. At the moment there is a clause in any
new development plans, that a public space
or garden has to be included in the project at
the developer’s expense. Once completed,
the City of London Parks and Open Spaces
Department maintains it. Some are built on
rooftops.
College of Arms
The College of
Arms is the official
heraldic authority
for Great Britain
and much of the
Commonwealth. It
is housed in a 17th. century building in
Queen Victoria Street where it moved to after
the previous home was lost in the fire of
1666. Luckily, their scrolls and records were
saved. As well as being responsible for the
granting of coats of arms, the College
maintains registers of arms, pedigrees,
genealogies, Royal Licences, changes of
name, and flags. The heralds, besides having
ceremonial duties, advise on all matters
relating to the peerage and baronetage,
precedence, honours and ceremonial as well
as national and community symbols including
flags.
Their original charter dates back to Richard III
in 1484. The present building was designed
by the Master Builder to the Office of Works,
Maurice Emmet. The gates and railings were
given by an American benefactor in 1956.
The College of Arms is still in use today
recording pedigrees and examining armorial
bearings.
Tower 42
This was the start of it
all. High rise mania in the
Square Mile. Designed by
Richard Seifert who also
was responsible for the
Centrepoint building in the
West End of London. He
died in 2001. Formerly
known as the Nat West Tower, it was built
between 1971 and 1979, opening in 1980. It
now belongs to another company, a law firm I
believe. The 600 foot high Tower 42
remained the tallest building in London for ten
years until it was beaten by the Canary Wharf
development in Docklands. It was also the
highest cantilever structure in the world.
When you stand at it’s base at 25 Old Broad
Street you can see there is nothing
supporting it on either side. Considering it’s
age, it still looks very modern and doesn’t
seem to have
deteriorated like
some. You can
book a place in the
Vertigo
Champagne bar
for some stunning
views of London.
The Erotic Gherkin
Originally built as the
Swiss Re Building but
sold on a few years later. It
retains it’s nickname of the
"Gherkin". As most of the
old historic buildings were
destroyed during the
second World War, why not replace them with
some memorable modern architecture. Sir
Norman Foster, the designer, is only doing
what Sir Christopher Wren did, designing
structures that stand out from the rest! It
stands at 30 Saint Mary Axe, but can be seen
on the skyline for miles around. It was built to
replace the old Baltic Exchange building
destroyed by IRA terrorists in the nineties. It is
constructed almost entirely from glass and
metal and incredibly, does not contain a single
curved pane of glass.
Tivoli Corner
Tivoli Corner is attached
to the curtain wall at the
rear of the Bank of England,
at the junction of Princes
Street and Lothbury. It is a
much later addition to the
rest of the building although
the same style of architecture has been
adopted. I can only assume it was added to
the bank (in 1936) because of the high
volume of traffic within the Square Mile, and
the narrow pavement making it difficult for
pedestrians to navigate. There is a circular
hole in the ceiling bearing the inscription: “The
Bank of England made this way through Tivoli
corner for the citizens of London 1936”. It is a
grand structure with pillars and two great
arches, simply (I presume) to cut off the
corner when walking.
Postman’s Park
One of many
parks in the City,
a short walk from
St Paul's
Cathedral. Near
the site of the
former headquarters of the General Post
Office. The name reflects its popularity
amongst workers from the sorting office. It
was opened in 1880 on the site of the burial
ground of St Botolph's Aldersgate church.
Over the next 20 years it incorporated the
adjacent burial grounds of Christ Church
Greyfriars and St Leonard, Foster Lane.
In 1900 the park became the location for the
artist George Frederic Watts's Memorial to
Heroic Self Sacrifice, a memorial to ordinary
people who died while saving the lives of
others. It is located in a loggia housing his
ceramic memorial tablets. Only four of the
planned 120 memorial tablets were in place at
the time of its opening, with a further nine
tablets added during Watts's lifetime. Watts's
wife, Mary, took over the management of the
project after his death in 1904. She oversaw
the installation of a further 35 memorial tablets
in the following four years along with a tiny
sculptured monument to Watts himself. In
1972 the park, including the plaques were
grade II listed. In June 2009 the Diocese of
London added a new tablet to the loggia, the
first new addition for 78 years.
The Millennium Bridge
The Millennium
Bridge opened as
a footbridge across
the Thames in
2000. It was
immediately
nicknamed the wobbly bridge because it
swayed as people walked across it. The more
people walking across it, the more it swayed.
Unfortunately this was unintentional and led to
it’s closure for another year in order to rectify
the problem!
Designed by the office of Norman Foster
along with Arum and Sir Anthony Caro, It was
the first new bridge across the Thames since
1894 when Tower Bridge was built. It is purely
for pedestrians and links the Saint Paul’s area
of the city to the Tate Modern and Globe
Theatre on the Southbank.
The Mansion House
The Mansion
House is the official
residence of the
Lord Mayor of the
London. It
completes an
imaginary triangle with the Bank of England
and the Royal Exchange. It is used for many
of the City's official functions. Designed by
George Dance the elder, it took thirteen years
to complete the building, from 1739 to 1752.
Parts of it’s upper levels were demolished in
1794 and 1843 apparently due to being too
large structures in comparison with the rest of
the building. At the annual Lord Mayor’s Show
scaffolding is erected all along the front,
where the incoming Lord Mayor, outgoing
Mayor and other officials watch the parade
pass by on the way to Saint Paul’s and the
Royal Courts of Justice.
Temple of Mithras
The Temple of Mithras
stood on the bank of the
Walbrook river. The
remains of the temple were
uncovered during
excavation work in 1954. It
was reconstructed and
stood in Queen Victoria Street until the
Walbrook Square project was purchased by
the Bloomberg company in 2010. The Temple
of Mithras can now be visited at it’s original
Roman position 7 metres below the modern
street level, as part
of an exhibition
space beneath the
Bloomberg
building.
The Royal Exchange
The Exchange
was founded in
1565 by Sir
Thomas Gresham
and built at his
own expense. It
was used as a centre for commerce in the
City of London. It was known as The
Exchange until 1571 when Elizabeth I
officially opened it as The Royal Exchange.
The great fire of 1666 destroyed the original,
and a new building opened three years later.
This suffered the same fate, burning down in
1838.
The present building was opened by Queen
Victoria in 1844 and remained the centre of
commerce until 1939. The 21st century saw it
become an up market shopping arcade for
designer goods, and a plush bar while
preserving the original outside architecture.
A sculpture of Gresham looks down from the
top of the building and the family crest, the
Golden Grasshopper forms the weather vane.
The Lloyds Building
Although still referred to
as the Lloyd's building it
seems to have a bit of
history. According to
Wikipedia: "The building
was previously owned by
Dublin-based real estate
firm Shelbourne Development Group, who
purchased it in 2004 from a German
investment bank. In July 2013 it was sold to
the Chinese company Ping An Insurance in a
£260 million deal". It is located on the corner
of Leadenhall Street and most of Lime Street.
Due to it's stainless steel structure is
unmistakable. Designed by Richard Rogers
and built over eight years from 1978 to 1986.
The stairs, elevators, electric and water pipes
are all located on the outside of the building,
and the 12 glass lifts were the first of their
kind in the UK. The original 1928 building was
demolished to make way for the present one.
Only the original entrance in Leadenhall
Street remains. It was left standing and forms
an uncomfortable looking appendage.
It was designed to allow sections to be added
or moved but in 2011 it was given a grade 1
listing, which means it cannot be altered.
PEOPLE and PLACES (2)